Golden pothos

Climbing stems and aerial roots

Golden pothos is a perennial evergreen herbaceous climber in the Araceae family. In the wild, its stems climb trees or other supports using aerial roots, so the plant cannot stay upright without support.

In its natural habitat, the stems can reach about 20 m, and mature stems have been described as up to 4 cm thick. Indoors, growth is usually controlled by pruning, which keeps the plant in its juvenile form with smaller leaf blades for longer.

• heart-shaped leaf blades on petioles
• aerial roots at stem nodes
• ability to attach to a support
• undivided leaves on young plants
• divided leaf blades on older specimens

Young plants usually have leaf blades smaller than 20 cm, while mature plants in the wild can have leaves up to 100 cm long and 45 cm wide. This transition depends not only on age but also on the ability to climb a sturdy support.

Origin and natural habitat

The species is native to Moorea island in French Polynesia. Sources also mention the Society Islands and the wet tropical biome, where the vine uses trunks and branches for support.

Aerial roots do not make the plant a parasite: they help it attach and make use of the moist environment around its support. Indoors, a moss pole, trellis, or another sturdy structure partly serves this role.

Light and variegation

Green-leaved forms tolerate partial shade, but variegated cultivars retain their pattern better in bright indirect light. In deep shade, yellow or cream areas become less noticeable as the plant produces more green tissue.

Avoid direct sun for all forms: it can damage the leaf blades, especially when the plant is close to the glass. The most reliable spot is a bright windowsill without midday sun or a space near a window.

• fading variegation
• longer internodes
• smaller new leaves

If the plant has spent a long time in shade, do not move it straight into intense light. The new spot should be brighter, but the leaves should not overheat in direct sun.

Watering and potting mix

Water moderately: the potting mix should dry slightly below the surface rather than stay constantly wet. Excess water combined with low temperatures is especially dangerous—the roots can easily rot in these conditions.

Use a light, nutrient-rich, well-drained potting mix. Sources on indoor growing mention a mix based on peat, well-rotted manure, leaf mold, and sand, along with an essential drainage hole in the pot.

• allowing the top layer of potting mix to dry
• leaving no water in the saucer after watering
• using soft water that has been left to stand
• reducing watering during cooler periods
• keeping the drainage hole clear

Droplets sometimes appear on the leaves after overwatering. This is not a reason to water more often: if the potting mix is wet, the plant needs a break, not more water.

Pruning, support, and repotting

Without support, the stems hang down and the plant grows as a trailing plant. For upright growth, install a support when planting or repotting so the aerial roots have something to grip.

Pruning helps control stem length and maintain the juvenile form for longer. The pruned tips can be used for vegetative propagation if each cutting has a node.

• removing overly long stems
• shortening bare stems
• securing stems to a support
• repotting young plants in spring
• repotting mature plants every 2-3 years

Young plants need repotting more often because their roots fill the pot faster. Mature specimens usually need repotting only every 2-3 years, provided the potting mix has not compacted and the roots have not filled the entire pot.

Propagation and flowering

Indoors, the species is propagated vegetatively using tip cuttings, layering, or stems cut into sections. The main requirement for a cutting is a node from which roots can develop.

Flowering is rare indoors, so the plant is grown mainly for its foliage. As an aroid, it produces an inflorescence with a spathe; the spathe is reported to reach up to 23 cm in this species.

• tip cuttings
• stem sections with a node
• layering

After rooting, young plants develop faster in warm conditions with indirect light. Excessively wet potting mix is just as undesirable at this stage as it is for a mature plant.

Why leaves turn yellow

Yellowing leaves are most often linked to growing conditions rather than the plant's age itself. If the lower leaves turn yellow after overwatering, first check the potting mix and the condition of the roots.

Brown spots can appear when the plant gets too cold, especially if temperatures fall below +15 °C. A cold windowsill and wet potting mix are a poor combination for this warmth-loving climber.

• constantly wet potting mix
• cold drafts
• insufficient light for variegated forms
• drying out after a long interval between waterings
• spider mites, thrips, or scale insects

Pests are often first noticed through tiny pale spots, sticky residue, or fine webbing on the stems. If these appear, isolate the plant and inspect the undersides of the leaves and the nodes.